In a large heat-proof glass or ceramic bowl, mix together the sugar and lemon zest using your fingertips. Rub together until clumpy and totally mixed. Using your fingertips to mix together the sugar and lemon zest releases the citrus oil that is held in the zest which makes it even more lemony. Add the egg yolks and, using a rubber spatula or silicone whisk, whisk until thickened, pale and slightly foamy.
In a large saucepan, heat the lemon juice over medium-high heat until it just comes to a boil. Remove from the heat and gradually pour over the foamy lemon-sugar egg whites, whisking constantly until all the lemon juice has been added.
Return the lemon-egg mixture to the saucepan and cook over low heat, stirring constantly until thickened enough to coat the back of a spoon - this should take around 5 minutes. Make sure you keep it over a gentle, low heat and stir constantly - if you leave it or let it boil, you will end up with a peculiar lemon scrambled egg yolk situation (not what we are looking for!).
Once it has thickened, remove from the heat and gradually add the butter and a pinch of salt. Stirring to ensure it is fully melted and incorporated. Strain through a fine sieve (optional) then pour into a jar and leave to cool completely before covering and chilling in the fridge.